CSWC Guide to Pairing Wines with the Thanksgiving Table

It’s difficult to select the perfect wine for Thanksgiving dinner since complex flavors and textures, e.g., white and dark turkey, stuffing (of who knows what ingredients…mushrooms, butter, sausage, nuts, fruit, etc.), rich gravy, candied yams, tart cranberries, rich sweet desserts, and many other side dishes all scream for different wines. Generally, it is the sweeter side dishes that throw the curve balls, but it’s even more complex if you add a ham or prime rib to your Thanksgiving table. So our CSWC tasting team to came up with a bunch of recommendations, most well under $20.

There’s no perfect wine to match every element of the meal, so don’t over-study it.

Thanksgiving is typically about quantity, not elegance; so don’t use the best, oldest, or most expensive wines in your cellar. Subtleties will be lost in the festivities.

Many “experts” say “serve American wines on this American holiday”. That’s nice, but we suggest that you also invite some complementary Old World wines for some amazing palate sensations! It’s a good idea to serve several different wines so people can mix and match them with the myriad of food flavors and textures for a wonderful cornucopia.

FOR TURKEY
Turkey goes amazingly well with both white and red wines. The best whites include refreshing, tangy, fruity whites with at least medium weight and nice aromatics, such as Viognier and Chenin Blanc. These are typically low in tannin and see little or no oak in their making. Some Sauvignon Blancs work, especially if they are low in oak and blended with other fruitier grape varietals to tone down the tartness. Stay away from overly oaked, “flabby” (low acidity) Chardonnays which might match nicely with turkey and buttery mashed potatoes, but not much else. If Chardonnay is a must, choose a “fresher” one, with higher acidity…balance is what you are looking for. You could also go for a dense, powerful white without much oak influence. like a dry Smaragd Riesling from Austria’s Wachau, a great match with their opulence and cutting minerality, as are their weightier counterparts from around the world. (Look for alcohol above 13 percent; here the ripeness translates as richer mouthfeel.)

The best reds to match with turkey include Syrahs (soft, succulent, spicy), and Zinfandels (luscious raspberry aromas, jammy flavors, rich, spicy). Young, medium-bodied reds like Beaujolais (tangy, ripe, spicy with a bit of mineral notes) and ESPECIALLY Pinot Noirs (with good fruit, suppleness, complexity, fragrance, and bright, clean finish) can complement turkey (and often ham). California Cabernets are usually too big, tannic and tart to match with turkey. The sugars in the food can make the tannins in cabs taste bitter, so be careful here. The key is to find wines that are fruity, softer, bright and less tannic. So the hands-down winner – if you’ve read a Thanksgiving wine story before, you’re already mouthing the answer – again, is Pinot Noir. Also, Beaujolais, or other wines made from the Gamay Noir grape (even served slightly chilled). With too much oak, Merlot can be overwhelming, but plusher ones can offer red fruit and pleasant tea aromas that cut through the bird’s richness. Or go the other way – look for more robust wines with age on them that highlight the savory notes in the gravy and meat. Skip aged Burgundies here; they need something more subtle. Try older Cabernet if you want to go that route, or perhaps a good aged Bordeaux, or even Brunello!

Guigal Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc France

Chardonnay Saintsbury “Carneros”

Chardonnay Au Bon Climat “Santa Barbara”

Marietta Zinfandel

Saintsbury Pinot Noir “Carneros”

Owen Roe Pinot Noir “Sharecropper’s” Willamette Valley, Oregon

O’Reilly Pinot Noir Central Coast

Peter Lehmann Barossa Shiraz

Beaujolais-Villages, Louis Latour “Chameroy”

FOR HAM
Ham can be salty, and side dishes (e.g., yams) are contra-salty. So you need fresh white wines (i.e., with good acidity) a hint of sweetness (ripeness, more acurately), yet dry in the finish. Best choices include California Dry Rieslings, Dry Gewurztraminer, and light/fruity German Rieslings with slate, spice, mineral and honey notes, mild sweetness, and snappy finish. Also good would be fruity Rosés (as well as Beaujolais mentioned above) with nice aromatics and dry finish, to counter the saltiness. But don’t serve Cabernets which compound saltiness (at least not with ham)!

Gunderloch Dry Gewurztraminer

Ca’ntele Rosato Apulia, Italy Rosé

Rudi Wiest “Rhein River” Riesling

Tavel Grand Cru “Domaine de Longval” (Rosé)

FOR PRIME RIB & OTHER HEARTY MEATS
Beef dishes typically match up best with big Cabernets with lotsa, lotsa, lotsa fruit, oak, and chewy tannins. But if you’re serving beef with your Thanksgiving meal, the “smorgasbord ” of accompanying side dish flavors dictates a cab with softer tannins, nice ripe fruit flavors, and some smoky and/or chocolate notes.

Avalon Cabernet Napa

Reininger “Helix Pomatia” – $21.99(killer blend of Washington Merlot, Cab & Syrah)

Hahn “Meritage” Central Coast

Castle Rock Cabernet Paso Robles

Hess Cabernet Mendocino-Lake-Napa

Clos du Val Cabernet Napa

Dead Letter Office Shiraz Padthaway, Australia
(this Aussie star is packed with flavors and ripe, soft tannins)

Silver Oak Cabernet Alexander Valley

STILL HAVING DIFFICULTY?
One wine that performs quite well with all Thanksgiving dishes is our personal favorite, Champagne (or quality sparkling wines!). It’s preferable to serve a rosé or pinot noir-based bubbly for added red-fruit character and a bit more richness and complexity. Buy extra sparkling wine and keep the festivities going all weekend. Or crack open a beer. You deserve one.

Our top picks from California include:

NV Schramsberg “Mirabelle” Brut

Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs Napa

and from France, at a reasonable price:

NV Duval-Leroy Brut

NV Bollinger “Special Cuvée” Brut

And from Italy:

Prosecco, NV “M Spago” Maschio Veneto

NV Bisol “Jeio” Rosato Veneto

Prosecco, Adriano Adami “Garbel 13″

JUST DESSERTS…
It’s difficult to find American wines that work well with all those tarts and pies and puddings, but several standouts are listed below. Also, try some of the incredible imports or a Port (especially with the post-food coma), or if you feel it is all overkill, just serve coffee.

Kiona Late Harvest Gewurztraminer (375 ml)

Bonny Doon Muscat “Vin de Glaciere”
(a remarkable complement to pecan pie or dark chocolate)

Castello di Meleto Vin Santo Tuscany, Italy (500 ml)

Here’es to wishing you and your familya joyous, happy adn safe holdiay season. If there is anything we can do to facilitate your holdiay table,don’t hesitate to ask! E-mail us at info@churchstreetwinecellars.com for last minute needs or suggestions.

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